The Green Fashion Scene
On February 18, 2019, the Australian Environment Minister, Melissa Price, announced that Melomys rubicola was officially extinct. The tiny rodent is considered by scientists to be the first mammal driven to extinction by human-caused climate change . According to a report by the Solid Waste Environmental Excellence Protocol, in 2018, the 2,000 active landfills in the U.S. began speedily approaching capacity. The Ocean Conservancy Agency even reports that eight million tons of plastic enter our oceans each year. These are only a few of the countless examples of our impact on the environment. The choices we make every day affect the planet, and all too often, that impact is an increasingly negative one. Still, gradual changes in how we stock our closets can begin to make a positive impact on the state of the environment.
Going green is a movement defined by making more environmentally conscious choices in our daily lives. These choices can include producing less waste, recycling when possible and reducing our carbon footprint. However, it takes more than reusable straws and hybrid cars to live a green lifestyle. In fact, we need to take a pointed look at clothing production. McKinsey and Company found that the fashion industry is worth approximately 2.4 trillion dollars. Fashion is an economic success story, but that success has come at a cost. False statistics that the fashion industry is the second largest polluter behind oil have spread over the year. While the problem has not quite reached this level of severity, the fashion industry has become a very prominent polluter. The processing, production and shipping of textiles and clothing use dangerous chemicals and release huge quantities of greenhouse gases. The global apparel and footwear industries produce eight percent of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions, according to Greenhouse Gas Protocol. Due to fashion’s substantial impact on the environment and a growing concern with green living, the sustainable fashion movement has found itself catching wind.
Sustainable fashion is a movement focused on creating clothing in an environmentally responsible way. “Taking a green stance on life” means considering what our closets contribute to the problems found in mass carbon production, water, soil pollution and waste. However, sustainable fashion has an unignorable pitfall. While the movement is admirable in its intent, the execution has made it unfortunately inaccessible to many individuals. According to the 2017 U.S. Census, there were 39.7 million people living in poverty(defined as earning less than $30,000 a year for a household of four). Many Americans struggle to make ends meet and do not have the disposable income to participate in the sustainable fashion philosophy as it stands. If this movement truly aims for sustainability, then it must not neglect these individuals.
Despite this flaw in the sustainable fashion movement, the problem it seeks to correct is an important one. Much of fashion's impact on the environment occurs during the production stage. Harmful chemicals and heavy metals are used in the production of textiles which are then used to make the clothes we wear. Greenhouse gases are released in multiple steps during the production process. Due to strong demand for trendy clothing, many companies produce products at extremely high rates.
Bike shorts became a huge trend in summer 2018 and were seen on the runways of brands such as Chanel and Fendi. But, chances are the girl wearing bike shorts in your Intro to Psychology class got her pair from Forever 21, not Chanel. Big trends like bike shorts or cargo pants hit the runways and large fast fashion retailers aim to meet the demand of the everyday consumer. In order to cut costs in production is made in large factories inciting further greenhouse gas emissions from the shipping of these clothes.
Sustainable fashion brands aim to cut the impact of the production process. They do so by using more eco-friendly fibers, cutting downshipping by producing product closer to where it will be sold and focusing on classic looks. These brands are able to make clothing in a way that is more environmentally conscious. However, the choice to not outsource production and to invest in sustainable fibers within the U.S. comes at a cost. Sustainable brands must charge more for their product to offset the high cost of production. The best-selling product on sustainable fashion brand Everlane’s website is a pair of jeans for just under $70. This simply is not feasible for individuals who struggle financially. A quick look at fashion retailer Reformation’s website displays their commitment to sustainable packaging. They outline their practices on the website, claiming that: “Over 80% of our cutting and sewing is done in Los Angeles and we manufacture the majority of our products in our own factory.” They cover everything from factory production to the shipping packaging, which happens to be “100% recycled paper products and compostable bio-based films.” Reformation goes as far as to publish their quarterly sustainability report, which they send out to their consumers via their newsletter. The brand not only practices sustainability in their production but informs their consumers about their practices and the positive impact they have on the environment. But, a large portion of the retailer’s clothing lies between $100 and $300. Brands like Reformation and Everlane are success stories in regards to sustainable fashion,, but they only cater to a very specific demographic of people - individuals who can afford this large price tag on everyday clothing.
The sustainable fashion movement also encourages investing in high quality pieces over fast fashion. This is meant to increase the longevity of your clothes and reduce the disposal of clothing. McKinsey and Company reports that almost three-fifths of clothing produced ends up in landfills or is incinerated within a year of production. The sustainable fashion movement argues that fast fashion not only unethically produces clothing but also caters to ever changing trends, leading to mass amounts of clothing production and then disposal once the trend has passed. While this retains some validity, this claim fails to acknowledge that some people depend on this clothing for its accessible price point and variety in clothing options. Famous fast fashion brands such as Forever 21 provide clothes for a variety of body types at a low price point. Many college students or post grads find themselves suddenly in new jobs and with minimal funds. Education major Marlinde Taylor finds that “as a student teacher, I need some specific professional clothes.” While Taylor considers herself proactive in limiting her environmental impact, she admits that the price of high quality goods or specifically sustainable clothes is not financially feasible for her as a college student.
Second-hand clothing has become the most accessible means of buying clothes in a green manner often increasing the lifespan of the items. Unfortunately, second hand clothing stores often have limited sizing options and minimal special occasion clothing. At Northwestern University, Student Enrichment Services (SES) offers a program to provide low-income students with clothing to get them through harsh Evanston winters and to give them business clothes. According to SES, 145 students requested clothing assistance in the 2019 fiscal year. Second-hand shopping provides limited access to purchasing sustainable fashion, especially for low income students.
Second-hand clothing can be a good option for people on a budget. Thrifting has become in vogue over the last few years. Second-hand clothing stores, like all others, are a business and operate on supply and demand. As ‘thrifting’ becomes trendy, stores are able to charge more for their products. Certain thrift stores, such as the chain Ragstock, offer those high-quality goods that sustainable fashion encourages, but not at a reasonable price. A used vintage T-shirt can cost $30 by the virtue of its name. On the other hand, many second hand clothing stores or websites like Depop allow people to sell their old clothing and increase the lifespan in an eco-friendly manner.
Overall, any attempt at sustainable fashion is an admirable one. With the current pressurized dialogue around our environment and its need for protection, individuals must hold themselves accountable. Many aspects of our lives create detrimental impacts on the planet and our closets are easily forgettable in this regard. The movement for environmentally conscious clothing production has brought attention to how our clothing choices have an effect on our environment but has made another issue entirely in excluding certain individuals. Sustainable fashion is a step that needs to be taken but, as consumers, we must hold the movement itself accountable for inclusion.