Sustainable Grunge: A Look into Chopova Lowena

Graphic by Michelle Sheen.

Recognizable for its colorful plaid pleats, the iconic Chopova Lowena skirt has been spotted on the likes of Dua Lipa, Korean pop group Itzy, Charli XCX, Madonna and Willow Smith. The skirt itself is a combination of various textiles and carabiners attached to a leather belt.

The brand is helmed by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena. The pair met at Central Saint Martins where they became best friends and decided to create their London based brand. 

“Our aesthetic comes from who we are, everything from our heritages, our experiences of growing up to our love of obscure sports,” said the founders to InStyle. They added that the core values of their brand are “sustainability, upcycling, utilizing recycled fiber and organic fibers fabrics. …We aim to give new life to vintage traditional textiles but also a new context, make craft modern and showcase its beauty.”

Chopova grew up in Sofia, Bulgaria, while Lowena has English roots, and the brand combines the duo’s heritage and sustainable values. The pleats on the skirts are inspired by Chopova’s Bulgarian heritage, specifically from the Bulgarian “bruchnik” and Scottish kilts. The duo creates the skirts using deadstock and recycled fabrics sourced from Bulgaria and the UK. 

I particularly love how this skirt speaks to the current needs of the world.The impacts of global warming have brought attention to how wasteful the fashion industry can truly be, and their brand is one that takes the environment into account to create something new and beautiful. While cycling through new trends, old clothing is discarded and produces an immense amount of waste. One of the solutions to combat the nature of this industry is to recycle old fabrics. Designers have the opportunity to use unique patterns and avoid producing waste by choosing to recycle instead of creating new fabrics for their collections multiple times a year.

For the future of the planet, fashion needs to put more emphasis on individual style rather than trends. Trends create an extraordinary amount of waste and are not always accessible to lovers of clothes. Fashion should be a way to express ourselves and our values. If we choose to follow trends, we aren’t necessarily speaking to our core selves, but we are reflecting the values of others. We should be prioritizing self expression in a way that does not negatively impact that planet. That means investing in pieces that have longevity.

The ability for Chopova and Lowena to synthesize their backgrounds is also appealing. They speak to their heritage through their art and share parts of their culture with the world. It is refreshing to see a mix of cultures at a time when the diversity of the world is not often enough reflected through clothing. We should highlight designers who are making unique designs and conscious choices.

Chopova Lowena might just be the perfect way to spice up your closet if you share in my love of pleated skirts. Grunge is evolving, and the mixing and matching of elegant pieces with edgier ones can create visually appealing outfits. If you are into following sustainable fashion, the Chopova Lowena duo is one to watch.

Graphic by Isabelle Hauf-Pisoni.