History of the Tabi: A Cult Classic

Graphic by Amira Dossani

Maison Margiela’s Tabi footwear lead a cult of fashion aficionados due to their instantly recognizable, experimental design. The two-toed shoe, although unconventional, is striking to the eye. They elicit questions such as: Are they comfortable? What about socks? Where are they from? Currently a fall favorite thanks to a resurgence of 90s fashion and the rise of unconventional -- some might say “ugly” fashion -- I wanted to delve into the history of the shoe.

Martin Margiela, the Belgian founder of Maison Margiela, celebrated unique and distinctive designs. Margiela developed his designs for Tabis as a reference to the Japanese worker’s shoe dating back to the 15th century. Originally as socks, the Tabi was meant to split the toes of workers to promote balance. If one had a balanced body, they could have a clear mind.

They were exclusively worn by the upper class due to the scarcity of cotton, but later the addition of China as a trading partner allowed them to be widely worn. Commoners were limited to blue fabric, while the wealthy could wear the most expensive colors: gold and purple. Tabis were worn with thonged footwear such as Geta, a wooden shoe which resembles sandals.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Tabis developed from socks into footwear. Rubber soles were added onto the design and became boots for outdoor activities. This design, called Jika-Tabi, is still worn in Japan by blue collar workers.

Margiela debuted his first model of Tabis in 1988 at his first ever show for his namesake brand. For the finale, he had the shoes dipped in red paint as the models walked down the runway. Margiela stated he did so to ensure the audience would take note of the odd footwear by looking at the interesting footprints on the runway. He had previously traveled to Japan, where he got inspiration for the shoe. He loved to push boundaries within his own designs and found the Jika-Tabis to be provocative.

While some claim that Margiela’s Tabis are a form of cultural appreciation, there is not widespread knowledge among the general public as to where the Tabi comes from. Some claim it is cultural appropriation due to this lack of acknowledgement. It could be considered a form of Orientalism, the imitation of Asian aesthetics through a western lens. As a white designer, Margiela should have played a role in appreciation rather than possessing a Japanese design and repurposing it without credit.

To truly see the Tabi shoe, one cannot separate the design from its cultural background. Fashion must be seen beyond purely aesthetics; the thoughtfulness and history behind a design should be acknowledged too to see it as the artform it is.

Beloved by fashion enthusiasts, the Tabis are a Margiela staple. Fans will resort to using Google Translate so they can get vintage pairs on Japanese auction sites.

Margiela now sells a wide variety of Tabis in different styles such as leather boots, Mary-Janes, heels and loafers. Consistent with the current ballet-core trend, the Tabi Ballerinas are quite popular. They add an interesting element to the classic, elegant flat.

While they do sell Tabi socks worth about $100, they do not come with Tabi shoes themselves. Wearers will often opt for cheaper pairs of split toe socks online. The comfortability of the shoe is debatable, but most fashion lovers argue that they are great for increased mobility. The split toe can feel unnatural to wearers at first, but they gradually feel normal after every wear.

Tabis are beloved due to their twist on an integral part of Japanese culture. Although unconventional, they are a conversation starter. While some might find them flashy, others have a deep devotion. (I, personally, find beauty in their unusual design.) Fashion must not always be about conventionality, it can also be the small detailed risks and the artistry behind a design.