Gorpcore: Here to Stay

Graphic by Austin Kim

Seemingly overnight, winter has arrived. Though Halloween’s snowfall may not have necessitated a massive sherpa hoodie or heavy boots, I found myself fully geared up to brave the cold. Physically – but also psychologically with daylight hours shortening and midterms approaching – I’ve found comfort in burying myself under puffer vests, beanies and parachute pants. I consider these beloved pieces to be staples in my gorpcore collection.

“Gorpcore” was coined in 2017 by Jason Chen for The Cut and originates from the acronym for “Good Ol’ Raisins and Peanuts.” Essentially, gorpcore consists of outdoor wear made to withstand extreme climates and environments. That said, the trend has been popularized by celebrities like Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber and Frank Ocean (all of whom live in Los Angeles, where temperatures are anything but extreme). Gorpcore’s accessible appeal is perhaps best summarized by a WhoWhatWear article that calls it “the love child of ready-to-wear runway brands and sports retailers like REI and Dick’s.”

With layering, earth tones and the juxtaposition of tight and loose-fitting clothing, gorpcore fits can be easily put together with pieces you probably already have in your closet. There’s no need to scour on Depop for dark-academia tweed or on fast fashion sites for mermaid-core sequins. In fact, my favorite gorpcore pieces have been thrifted or handed down to me by family and friends. Plus – depending on the accessories and layers you choose – gorpcore can be just as subtle as it can be extra. This versatility extends to its practicality for a range of climates, no matter how cold or temperate. With gorpcore, there’s no need to compromise fashion with functionality.

I’ve adapted gorpcore to match my personal style, incorporating certain (but not all) elements of the aesthetic into my outfits:

Ivory parachute pants with Chinese characters thrifted in Paris

Tennis sneakers and a white cargo skirt bought off of Depop

White nylon tube top and green utility pants thrifted in New York

Arguably, gorpcore reached its peak in popularity shortly after the pandemic. I won’t argue that COVID-19 inspired us to spend more time outdoors and increased our preferences for comfortable clothing, driving the trend into the spotlight. But is gorpcore out for good? I don’t think so.

Over the past year, there’s been a rise in quiet luxury, which favors tailored cuts, matching sets and solid colors. While I love a clean fit, there’s something fundamentally performative about quiet luxury that’s the opposite of gorpcore’s authentic practicality. Gorpcore acknowledges that our day-to-day lives are more likely to involve dog walking than yacht riding. It recognizes that a beanie, not a slicked-back bun, will keep you warm in a blizzard. It emphasizes the worth of a secondhand North Face fleece over a polyester dupe for a designer blazer. Simply put, gorpcore isn’t about trying to be something you’re not.

But even those who appreciate the gorpcore aesthetic may argue the trend is on its way out. Harper’s Bazaar recently praised the return of 2010s prep styles by Miu Miu that look “a little girly, a little dweeby.” Drop waists, pleats, ruffles and petals were all over runways this fall, suggesting winter 2024 will highlight preppy motifs and feminine details – characteristics quite different from gorpcore’s sporty functionality and gender-neutral cuts.

In response, I say there’s something enduring about gorpcore that makes it more than a trend. We may no longer work from home, but we can all appreciate an effortlessly comfortable fit. We might be drawn to tweed over the holidays and sequins over New Year’s, but we will all be inevitably reaching for sherpa when temperatures dip below freezing and we’re hunched over our desks studying for finals. And who’s to say you can’t mix gorpcore with other aesthetics? This winter, I’ll be juxtaposing my outdoor wear with gold jewelry, pops of color and perhaps plaid or floral accents here and there as a nod to Miu Miu. Ultimately, the best fashion is what is most authentic to us – and to me, what looks good is what serves its purpose.